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There is Mexico – and then there is Yucatán. These two worlds share much, yet their histories diverge at many points – and at times have collided. Yucatán is the land of the Maya – one of the world’s largest intact indigenous groups. The food is different, too, characterized by the infamous habanero, the world’s hottest chile. The region shares more here with the Caribbean and Europe than with the rest of Mexico. Pit smoked meats, plantains, Dutch cheeses, Portuguese sausages and Lebanese specialties are some of the typical foods of the region that may surprise you.
Culturally, the Yucatan has its own music, dance and literature, and of course the many otherworldly Mayan archaeological sites. Mérida – the capital of Yucatán state and cultural center of the entire peninsula – was once home to the world’s largest per capita population of millionaires, due to the production of henequen, a fiber made from the agave plant. Now Mérida is experiencing a resurgence, attracting thousands of foreigners from many countries who are discovering its charms, purchasing ruined mansions and restoring them to their original splendor. In such a setting is Los Dos – the cooking school devoted to 100% comida yucateca and owned by former New Yorker David Sterling, who will be your chef and guide during your stay. Los Dos has been featured in Travel and Leisure, The New York Times, ELLE Mexico and in many other publications and television programs including Rick Bayless’s “Mexico: One Plate at a Time.” Join us and see why Yucatecan cuisine is finally landing on the gourmet radar!
This ancient autumnal rite – known throughout Mexico as Día de los Muertos – is still practiced faithfully among the Maya of Yucatán. Their name for it is Hanál Pixán, which means “feast of the spirits.” According to their belief, departed loved ones return to earth during this week for a visit – and lots of feasting! Altars that commemorate the dead pop up all over town, and favorite foods are prepared and consumed by all, most notably the giant tamal called mucbilpollo. This is surely one of Yucatán’s most colorful and authentic events
Arrival in Merida and transfer to Hacienda Xcanatun, an 18th century hacienda which has been transformed into an exclusive small luxury hotel with 18 suites.
Dinner on your own tonight.
 9:00am A city tour of this magnificent colonial city will help you get your bearings. A drive up Avenida Paseo de Montejo will reveal many of the old hennequen mansions where once lived the city’s wealthiest inhabitants.
11:00am Stroll around Plaza Principal; tour the Cathedral – the hemisphere’s oldest – and view the impressive murals in the Palacio del Gobierno. And most important, we will view the special Concurso de Altares – the breathtakingly colorful competition of altar-building especially for Hanál Pixán. Hundreds of locals participate.
12:30pm noon At Los Dos, you will meet local Mayan women who will instruct you in the fine art of shaping tortillas; then take turns making our regional tacos known as panuchos and salbutes.
1:00pm Snack on your creations.
1:30pm Cooking instruction at Los Dos. Today we will make our own mucbilpollo – which Chef David has updated with chocolate, chiles and other surprises!
3:00pm Be seated for the comida fuerte (main meal of the day)
4:00pm Return to hotel.
Evening free.
9:00am Chef David Sterling will greet you at Los Dos, and invite you into his kitchen where he will present an overview of Yucatán’s unique ingredients and culinary heritage.
10:00am Stroll with him to the dazzling new Museo de la Ciudad de Mérida (City Museum) located in a restored turn-of-the-century post office.
11:30am After the museum, tour the sprawling and colorful central market where you will see piles of recados, the seasoning pastes unique to Yuctecan cuisine. Purchase your ingredients and return to Los Dos.
12:30pm Snack in the Los Dos dining room.
1:30pm Cooking instruction: Possible dishes include Sopa de Lima, Pollo Asado, Sorbete de Lima and Agua Fresca de Lima.
3:00pm Feast in the Los Dos dining room
4:00pm Transfer to hotel
Evening free.
8:30am Excursion to the charming colonial city of Izamál. Along the way, we will stop to visit the incredible Mayan cemetery at Hoctún. During the week of Hanál Pixán, villagers clean out the crypts, repaint them with colorful decorations, and bring flowers, candles and food as offerings.
10:30am Tour the monastery and church of Izamál, built atop the base of an ancient Mayan pyramid. Afterward we will enjoy a calesa (horse and buggy) ride through town, past the several large intact pyramids that remain of the ancient city.
12:30pm We will enjoy a quick snack at a regional restaurant, then join a local family in preparing the traditional Yucatecan comida enterrada – foods that are cooked underground. We will make a different kind of mucbilpollo as well as the succulent pork dish called cochinita pibil, bury them both and wait for the feast to rise from the ground!
4:30pm On the road back to Mérida, we will stop for a twilight mass at the cemetery of Hoctún. We promise goosebumps as you watch locals quietly strolling into the cemetery, carrying candles and softly singing in Maya.
6:00pm Return to hotel. Evening free.
8:30am Excursion to Hacienda Vista Alegre, a restored 17th century hacienda, whose current inhabitants operate a distillery on the grounds that produces the famous Yucatecan honey/anise liqueur Xtabentun as well as a variety of incredible rums. Yes, you will taste them all after the tour! You can also enjoy a small botanical garden and orchard where grow many typical and unusual varieties unique to Yucatan, such as zapote – the famous chewing gum tree!
1:00pm Transfer to another restored hacienda – the world renowned Hacienda Teya known for its authentic and high quality Yucatecan fare. Chef Sterling will help you navigate the menu and together you will sample a variety of regional dishes.
3:30pm Return to hotel; evening free.
We suggest that you stroll to the Plaza Principal, where at 8:00pm every Monday a variety of regional Yucatecan song and dance is performed.
8:30am Today is a romantic and exotic excursion into the heart of Mayan Yucatan. First, we drive to Uxmal – considered the most beautiful of the Mayan archaeological zones and inspiration to Frank Lloyd Wright.
12:00 After our guided tour of Uxmal, we stop at the tiny pueblo of Santa Elena, where we will visit a Mayan family living as the Maya have lived for the past century. The lady of the house will show us her kitchen – a thatched hut with a wood fire in the center – and prepare for us some typical snacks. And her husband will show us his solar – the garden that surrounds the house and that provides many of the family’s daily food needs, such as sour oranges, chiles, tomatoes, peanuts – even pigs and turkeys!
1:30 On the way back to Merida, we will stop at the 5-star Hacienda Temozon, one of the Luxury Collection owned by Starwood. The setting is magnificent, and we will enjoy the beautiful presentation and updated classics of Yucatecan fare for our lunch.
4:00pm Transfer to hotel.
8:00pm Dinner at Néctar where the resort-trained chef/owners prepare fusion dishes incorporating many Yucatecan ingredients. We will also enjoy a sampling of wonderful Mexican and South American wines paired to each dish especially by Chef Sterling.
Check out and transfer to Merida airport for departure.
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